St John's Co-Cathedral, Valletta — the Order's Baroque masterpiece and Caravaggio

What is St John's Co-Cathedral?

St John's Co-Cathedral is the great church built by the Order of St John (the Knights Hospitaller) as their conventual church in their new capital, Valletta. Plain and fortress-like on the outside, its interior is a complete Baroque ensemble of gilded carving, painted vaults and funerary art, and it serves today, together with the cathedral in Mdina, as a co-cathedral of the Archdiocese of Malta.

Where is St John's Co-Cathedral?

The co-cathedral stands in the centre of Valletta, on Triq San Ġwann, a short walk from Republic Street and the Grandmaster's Palace. Valletta is the main hub of the Maltese bus network, so the church is easily reached on foot from City Gate.

History of St John's Co-Cathedral

The church was commissioned by Grand Master Jean de la Cassière and built between 1573 and 1577 to designs by the Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar, who also shaped much of early Valletta. Its severe exterior reflects the Order's military character. In the 17th century the interior was transformed into a Baroque showpiece: the Calabrian artist Mattia Preti painted the vaulted ceiling with scenes from the life of St John the Baptist, and the side chapels were assigned to the different langues (national divisions) of the Order, each richly decorated. In 1820 the church was raised to co-cathedral status alongside the older cathedral in Mdina.

What to see at St John's Co-Cathedral

• Caravaggio's 'The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist' (1608) — the largest canvas Caravaggio painted and the only work he signed, displayed in the Oratory.
• 'Saint Jerome Writing' — a second Caravaggio in the same Oratory.
• The marble floor — hundreds of inlaid tombstones of knights, a continuous carpet of heraldry.
• Mattia Preti's vaulted ceiling — the life of St John the Baptist.
• The langue chapels — gilded side chapels of the Order's national divisions.

Architecture and significance

St John's is one of the clearest expressions of the Order's two faces: a defensive, austere shell enclosing an interior of extraordinary richness. The contrast between Cassar's plain Mannerist structure and the later Baroque decoration makes it a key monument in the story of Maltese art, while the Caravaggio canvases give it international standing in the history of European painting.

Visiting St John's Co-Cathedral

The co-cathedral operates as a museum as well as a place of worship, with an entry ticket that includes the Oratory and the Caravaggio paintings. Opening hours and admission prices change seasonally and should be checked against the St John's Co-Cathedral Foundation before visiting. Modest dress is required, and flat shoes are requested to protect the marble floor.